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Frommer's Guide
FEATURES AND EVENTS
Revisiting D-Day 60 Years Later

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Revisiting D-Day
by Adam Davis
Manager, Editorial and Promotional Content

Getting There
The best way to get to the D-day beaches is to drive, as public transportation is unreliable. The trip takes about three hours from Paris. Take A13 west to Caen, continuing west along A13 to Bayeux. From Bayeux, travel north along D6 until you reach the coast at Port-en-Bessin. From here, D514 runs along the coastline; D-day sites are generally west of Port-en-Bessin. Parking is not a problem, as there are designated areas all along the roadway, most of them free.
Copyright © 2003 by Wiley Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved.

It may seem not seem like it has been that long to those who remember it, but 2004 marked the 60th anniversary of D-day. In commemoration of the biggest military invasion in history, Normandy’s Bessin region hosted an event of international scale as American and European war veterans and historians convened to remember the events that turned the tide of World War II. monument

More than 60 years have passed, but there is something very special about visiting the D-day sites. The French and U.S. governments have collaborated closely to memorialize them in a tasteful way, allowing the real landscapes and drama to shine through. And the beaches and cliffs are dramatic, particularly where you can still find glaring reminders of the shelling and firefights that violently reshaped the terrain in the waning days of the war.

D-day sites abound in Normandy, but some are more significant and dramatic than others. Here are a few that you should not miss:

The Battle for the Beach
The wide-open expanse of Omaha Beach is a serene place these days, but even if you haven’t seen Saving Private Ryan it’s not hard to imagine what it must have looked like on June 6, 1944, when Allied forces landed on this and a handful of other strategic spots along the coast of Normandy.

Omaha Beach is big--six miles long and as wide as three football fields at some places. As American soldiers began their assault in the early hours of that historic morning, they learned the hard way that the terrain, perfectly suited for their amphibious landing craft, was also completely exposed to enemy fire. Estimates vary, but as many as 1,000 American troops were killed and another 2,000 injured on the first day of the invasion. At the north entrance to Omaha Beach you can stop to see the monument to the fallen soldiers of the 5th Engineer Special Brigade before driving or walking along the beach, which has become a popular spot for sunbathing and swimming during the summer months.

Close by, more than 9,000 American soldiers are buried at the Normandy American Cemetery. This place tends to resonate very strongly with visitors, so be prepared for an emotional experience as you gaze out upon row after row of white crosses and Stars of David overlooking the sea. The cemetery closes at 5pm daily (6pm during summer), so be sure to schedule your time accordingly so that you don’t miss this important stop. pointe

More Brave Battles
West of Omaha Beach is Pointe du Hoc, a strategic bluff that was bombed by Allied forces for months before a group of just 255 American Rangers captured it during the D-day invasion by rappelling the cliffs under enemy attack. To this day Pointe du Hoc is still scarred with craters and the rubble of fallen bunkers destroyed in the bombing that preceded the land invasion, making it one of the most evocative of all the D-day sites. As you walk towards the stone monument at the point of the bluff, it’s easy to see why Pointe du Hoc was such an essential--and difficult--place for the Allies to secure: Jutting out high above the water, it was the perfect spot for German guns to fire upon Omaha Beach to the right and Utah Beach to the left.

Utah Beach is the other American landing site at Normandy, and is just a few miles further west. The heroism of the soldiers of the 4th U.S. Infantry Division who landed here is commemorated with a red granite obelisk overlooking the beach.

You will find reminders of D-day throughout this coastal region of Normandy, from the British and Canadian landing beaches of Juno, Gold, and Sword (all east of Omaha Beach), to the little town of Ste Mere Eglise, where the paratroopers of the 82nd Airborne Division landed under heavy enemy fire. It may be just 60 years since the invasion, but the stories already seem timeless, and their significance in shaping the world as we know it today makes for an unforgettable travel experience.•


Inside Scoop
An Ancient Comic Strip in Bayeux
If you know your history, then you’ll probably remember that the beaches of Normandy also played a role in another massive invasion: the Norman conquest of England, which was launched from the shores of Normandy in 1066. For an experience that’s part history lesson, part Art 101, make time in your trip for a visit to the Musée de la Tapisserie in Bayeux (which happens to be the first town to be liberated by the Allies in 1944). The Bayeux Tapestry is a 230-foot-long depiction of the Norman Conquest that was probably commissioned shortly after William the Conqueror defeated Harold to become King of England. If you’re confused, never fear. A visit to this one-of-a-kind museum will give you ample time to contemplate yet another spectacular beach landing (think: horses crossing the English Channel on Viking ships). And, since the story is told in a linear, pictorial fashion (think: tremendously long comic strip), the Bayeux Tapestry is that rare history lesson that your kids can also get into.

Musée de la Tapisserie
Centre Guillaume-le-Conquérant
13 rue de Nesmond
Bayeux, Normandy
Tel: 02 31 51 25 50

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